Rwanda. Volcanoes (Virunga) National Park, Kinigi Guesthouse. Monday 3 August. Week 15, day 113.

We decided to pay a preparatory visit to the park HQ where we were very courteously received by the staff, including the gentleman who actually does the group allocations. We had a long conversation with him and he was most interested in the self-drive nature of our trip. I was unashamedly currying favor and he seemed to like us.

GEEKS: Rwanda. Volcanoes (Virunga) National Park, Kinigi Guesthouse. Sunday 2 August. Week 15, day 112.

I am going to post the route circumnavigating Lake Burera in detail as I believe many more self-drive travelers should consider going on this excursion.


Kinigi (Volcanoes NP) – Musanze – road to Cyanika Border with Uganda – Kabaguma Village – Rondo Village – Kirambo Village – Umugu Village – Kidaho Village on the Cyanika road – back to Musanze and Volcanoes NP.

Total distance and time taken.

To and from Musanze (Ruhengeri): 4 hr, 90km, but many stops to admire the view and take photos, could probably do in 3 hr.

Rwanda. Volcanoes (Virunga) National Park, Kinigi Guesthouse. Sunday 2 August. Week 15, day 112.



“It is not down in any map; true places never are.” – Herman Melville.


Luxury of all luxuries, I managed to sleep till 08H00 this morning, a real exception for me and a treat for Anne not to be disturbed at some unearthly hour. The breakfast at Kinigi consisted of good coffee, some fruit, a decent enough omelet and toast.

Rwanda. Volcanoes (Virunga) National Park, Kinigi Guesthouse. Saturday 1 August. Week 14, day 111.


Paradis Malahide and the village of Rubona – Rubavu (Gisenyi) – Mukamira – Musanze (Ruhengeri) – Kinigi.

Total distance and time taken.

90km, 1hr 50 min.

Route breakdown and details.

Rwanda. Volcanoes (Virunga) National Park, Kinigi Guesthouse. Saturday 1 August. Week 14, day 111.

We had no choice really but to leave Paradis Malahide as there was to be a wedding there today. We were given the option to continue in the car park but were already feeling too much under public scrutiny and inquisitiveness. We are starting to feel a little like gypsies. It amazes me how much attention we as self-driving tourists and our rig attracts. It seems as if we are a dying breed in this part of the world.

Rwanda. Rubona (near Rubavu on Lake Kivu). Paradis Malahide Cottages and Camping. Friday 31 July. Week 14, day 110.

After some further reading and also discussions with locals at Bethanie, discretion prevailed and it was decided not to do the whole Congo-Nile Route. The deciding issue is that it is advised to do the route with 2 or more vehicles in case of problems. It has not been too often on this trip that I have chickened out of this type of challenge, but as the trip has progressed I have slowly been learning not to demand too much of my heavily loaded Slow Donkey. We still have a long way to go and the fairly recent vehicle problems have taught me increased respect for the tougher routes.

GEEKS: Rwanda. Kibuye, Lake Kivu, Presbyterian Hotel Center Bethanie. Thursday 30 July. Week 14, day 109.

ROUTE: Uwinka and Nyungwe Forest – Gisakura village – Buhinga – Rusizi (Kamembe).

Rusizi – Buhinga – Nyamasheke village – Karongo (Kibuye).

Distance travelled and time taken.

158km, 5hr, easily reduce by 20% if time an issue.

Relevant is to extrapolate the time likely from Uwinka to Karongo without the detour to Rusizi as most would want to take this route. It would take 4hr only and be 50km shorter at 108km.

Route details.

• Uwinka to Buhinga OR Rusizi, Good tar, short sections under repair.

GEEKS: Rwanda. Chez Lando Hotel, Kigale. Saturday 25 July. Week 13, day 104.


Mwanza – Usagara – Ferry from Kokongo (as spelt in T4A) {Kikongo} to Busisi – Serengema – Geita – Bwanga – took shortcut to Diobahika – Nyakanazi – Kafua – Rusumu Falls Border Post.

RWANDA: Rusumu Border Post – Kirehe – Kabarondo – Kayonza – Rwamagana – Kigali.

Details, distances and times.

There is a new, large shopping mall on the road between Tunza and Mwanza, which I am sure will be suitable for reprovisioning. Co-ordinates S02 30,093 E32 54,145.

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